06.08.2019
Alone with the pizza thief
The most popular climbing areas on the Lofoten can be found near Henningsvær. This includes the Pianokrakken Area.

Pianokrakken area

06.08.2019 - After breakfast we set off towards Henningsvær. As expected, the climbing areas are quite crowded. We find a small, narrow parking lot not too far from the Pianokrakken area where we want to climb this day. I have chosen the route Pizzatyven (engl. Pizza Thief, N6, UK: E2 5c, 5 pitches, Top 50). As we pass the sector West Face, it is teeming with climbers. There are at least 5 rope teams in the route Pianohandler Lunds rute (N4+, UK: HS 4c) and another 3 to 4 rope teams are still waiting at the starting point. The routes next to it are quite crowded as well. We are seriously worried about queuing up for our route and having to wait for hours. Maybe we should have arrived the evening before or at least we should have gotten up earlier.

We cross a large scree field to reach the sector Maurpillaren. Nobody is there except us. We take another look at the description and the topo to make sure that we are at the right place. Everything fits. The sun blazes down on the rocks and there is hardly any wind. We get rid of some clothes and prepare for the climb.

The route Pizzatyven has five pitches. The crack climbing can be protected quite well if you have enough gear. However, there is only one bolted belay and the rest of the climb is clean. If you like crack climbing and know how to layback, you will love this climb. There are only two challenging sections where you need to pull hard and use all holds to get pass them. A bit of stamina does not hurt either. The route is really worthwhile. The descent is easy, it leads along a small path and the scree field back to the starting point.

Barbara in Pizzatyven. Below the scree, the road and the sea

Barbara in Pizzatyven. Below the scree, the road and the sea

Barbara climbs up a granite flake

Barbara climbs up a granite flake

Barbara in the traverse

Barbara in the traverse

Next pitch: crack with shallow step

Next pitch: crack with shallow step

Barbara takes a closer look at the crack

Barbara takes a closer look at the crack

Barbara climbs the crack with the shallow step

Barbara climbs the crack with the shallow step

Sea view

Sea view

Barbara reaches one of the last belays

Barbara reaches one of the last belays

Summit picture: route on-sight completed

Summit picture: route on-sight completed

Fishing in the evening is rather unsuccessful. The caught fish are too small and we release them back into the wild. Pasta with sauce is also delicious.

Overnight stay: N 68.187444, E 14.224500

Lessons learned

  • Fishing on the shallow coast turns out to be a bit more difficult and we lose a flasher in the sea grass.
  • There are many climbers and hikers in this area. I miss the silence we had at the last resting places.
  • As soon as the sun comes out, it is really nice and warm. Not warm enough for us to go swimming with the Norwegians and Finns, but warm enough for a pair of shorts and a T-shirt.
Written by Barbara