Gandalf
15.08.2019 - We have not yet climbed in the Gandalf area and this day we want to fix that. We pick two routes and head off around noon with light equipment. The rain has stopped in the morning, the rock should be dry by now and the weather should stay like this until evening. The first route, Guns’n Roses (N6-, UK: HVS 5a, 3 pitches, Top 50), is quite nice but rather tough for its grading. At the starting point of the second route we hesitate because it starts drizzling over and over again. Finally, we do not bother about the little drizzle anymore and climb the route Tromsø ekspressen (N6, UK E1 5b, 3 pitches, Top 50). A wise decision: The weather gets better, the climb is great and we ascend in less than an hour.
While packing our equipment we meet a Canadian and his climbing partner from Henningsvær at the foot of the wall. He explains that this is perfect weather for climbing and that locals always climb in light rain without all the tourists. We actually meet him again the next day when the drizzle sets in and the two of them set off for another climb.
Overnight stay: N 68.168097, E 14.224332
Along the cracks
16.08.2019 - The day welcomes us with bright sunshine. We decide to join Marius and Karen for climbing the route Pan (N7-, UK: E3 6a, 4 pitches, Top 50) on the coast (area: The Coast, sector: Geitvika). Of course we let them have the lead and keep enough distance before starting the climb. The Pan is a beautiful route over 4 pitches along cracks. It gets steeper and steeper and the cracks get finer and finer until you reach the crux in the 3rd pitch, a shallow overhang. After that there is another easy but beautiful pitch. At the top Marius and Karen are already waiting for us and we have a nice time chatting about the route and the climbing.
Lessons learned
- Norwegians and immigrants are very friendly people who often have a smile on their faces.
- Attention to all men: It seems to be a common scenario to come to Norway for work and to get stuck because you meet a woman and get a dog together.