Driving and waiting
19.08.2019-21.08.2019 - After breakfast we set off towards Flatanger. We take the ferry from Kjøpsvik to Drag and continue south on the main road E6 for hours. At Grong we have to leave the main road. We use this opportunity to stock up on food and fishing gear because we do not expect to find shops in the small villages.
At the climbing area in Flatanger you can park your car for NOK 50 per day or stay at the campground which costs NOK 100 per night and person. Since it is already late in the afternoon and rainy weather is predicted for the next day, we do not stay.
At a bridge we try our luck at fishing, unfortunately in vain. However, we meet a couple of German fishermen who kindly give us a very nice cod of about 50 cm length.
On our first proper rainy day off we plan the rest of our trip and the route back to Austria. In the early evening Sigi heads to the nearby pier for fishing and catches a really big Pollack. Thus, we have delicious fish fillets for dinner several days in a row.
Overnight stay 19.08.2019: N 65.8636, E 13.1829 (near Mosjøen)
Overnight stay: N 64.443453, E 10.740568 (near Flatanger outside Vik)
Climbing in Flatanger
22.08.2019-23.08.2019 - We leave Elmo at the campground in Flatanger and follow some other climbers to the main sector of the climbing area. We plan to meet Richard and Bernhard there. Once we arrive at the crag, we get to know a friendly Brit who has been walking up the trail with sticks. He had suffered a meniscus injury just before he left for the trip and his physiotherapist told him that he would not be able to climb. But this does not prevent him from climbing one 8a route after another. Admirable or crazy, we do not judge. Since the quickdraws are already in place, Sigi takes the opportunity and tries his latest 8a project. He is almost able to climb the 8a pitch on his first attempt but he struggles with the boulder problem of the lower 7b+ pitch (horizontal overhang) due to his height. He has to place the heel hook extremely overstretched and with a lot of power. To warm up for a further attempt he boulders this crux once more. Suddenly a stabbing pain shoots through his hamstring and he hears a loud popping. He immediately realizes that hard climbing is over now. With a lot of effort and breaks he still manages to reach the top and to remove the quickdraws. Not an easy task if you cannot apply backward pressure to one leg in the overhang.
In order to test for limited mobility, Sigi climbs some easier routes after a long break. In the evening the pain gets worse and a hot shower cannot help. Therefore, he takes some painkillers as a precaution and applies a mixture of diclofenac gel and arnica ointment.
The next day Sigi is in pain, but we are in the famous Flatanger and he is not willing to just sit around. Hence, he joins Richard and Bernhard for some easy climbing. I take a break and use the free WiFi at the campground to tinker with the blog.
After this day we come to the conclusion that, due to the injury, it makes more sense to explore easier climbing areas instead of staying in Flatanger. We leave before dinner. The right decision: Weeks later an MRI reveals that the tendon attachment to the ischium has been partly torn and several weeks of absolute rest are necessary.
On this evening we repeatedly see elks in the fields right next to the road. Unfortunately, they are quite shy. As soon as we get out of the car, they retreat into the forest. We can only take pictures out of the car window.
Overnight stay: N 64.496051, E 10.817864 (Climb Flatanger campground)
Lessons learned
- Injuries to the muscles or muscle fiber tears are a common problem of heel hooks (according to internet research). These mainly occur when bouldering.
- Advice from Richard: a mixture of diclofenac gel and arnica ointment on the strain. Wrap it with cling wrap and probably aluminum foil. Works wonders.