Großglockner

01.06.2020-02.06.2020 - The weather forecast for my birthday and the days afterwards is not very promising. Therefore, Sigi decides to use the window of good weather from 1st to 3rd of June to surprise me with his present. I am only told that I need my alpine equipment including crampons, ice tools and snowshoes. Furthermore, I am supposed to refresh my knowledge about crevasse rescue.

Just before the departure Sigi tells me that we are going to tackle the Großglockners (3798 m) together with Caro. An ascent of the Großglockner has been on my personal wish list for quite a while, but Sigi and I could never agree on a route. On the one hand the easier routes to the summit are very crowded once the season starts. On the other hand I would like to remember the first trip to the Großglockner as a pleasure. For my sake, Sigi decides to climb the Stüdlgrat (III+, 500 m) with Caro and me.

Approach

Equipped with an up-to-date topo and GPS tracks of two possible descents, we ascend from the parking area at the Lucknerhaus to the Stüdlhütte. The hike up to the Lucknerhütte is quite pleasant. After that we have to put on our snowshoes. The snow is solid and we make good progress. Since the weather clears up, navigation is easy and we can enjoy the view and watch the marmots.

We spend the night in the winter shelter of the Stüdlhütte. It is a small hut with several rooms. The main room contains two large tables in front of the benches on the walls. We light the small wood stove and start melting snow using the available pots. In the course of the evening two further rope teams arrive at the hut. They intend to climb the Mayerlrampe on the next day. Shortly after 22:00 everybody goes to bed and tries to sleep at least for a few hours. Throughout the night we are repeatedly awakened by the strong wind which even opens the doors once.

Parking area at the Lucknerhaus N 47.021740, E 12.689184

Stüdlhütte: N 47.054790, E 12.681127; DAV Stüdlhütte

Stüdlgrat

While the other rope teams set off at about 03:00 in light snowfall and fog, we are allowed to stay until 06:00. When we leave the hut at 06:45 we enjoy perfect visibility, a clear blue sky and almost no wind. The snow is solid and perfect for walking. Accordingly, we can cross the glacier very quickly. At the start of the ridge we swap our snowshoes for crampons and off we go.

Sigi leads the deeply snow-covered ridge. We climb most of the pitches simultaneously with at least one intermediate protection. Soon we reach the rope teams we have met the evening before. Since there is too much snow in the Mayerlrampe, they have decided to turn around and climb the Stüdlgrat instead. A mountain guide and his guest crowd past us and one of the rope teams at an exposed location just before a belay. This rope team offers us to pass them as well. However, we decide to wait for a better location in an easier pitch in order not to make anybody nervous. Unfortunately, I make a mistake after passing. I am already past the rope team and laughing at something when my hand suddenly slips off the icy rock and I lose balance. Sigi catches my fall, but I still swing a few meters down between the rocks. My left foot gets stuck between the rocks, but I can free myself on my own. Fortunately, I do not lose my ice tool and I can quickly climb back up. Apart from an abrasion and bruises I remain uninjured. We can continue our tour without interruption. Sigi is able to free climb the whole route including the most difficult parts. Caro and I use the steel anchors and steel ropes in some sections.

The last pitches to the summit are more difficult than expected. It is hot and we make slow progress because we have to repeatedly wait for the rope teams ahead of us. In the end all rope teams reach the summit safe and sound.

There are only a few people on the summit that day. We enjoy the nice weather and the fantastic view from the top of the Großglockner. We joke together and take pictures.

We would love to stay longer on the summit, but a long descent is still ahead of us. One rope team after the other starts the descent via the normal route. While the skiers strap on their touring skis and ski back down into the valley, we still have to trudge through the heavy wet snow for hours. We are tired but happy when we arrive at the car.

The trip to the summit of the Großglockner is definitely one of the best gifts I have ever received.

Lessons learned

• Focus is essential, but a skilled rope team is just as important.
• No matter how well you are informed about the current situation in advance, sometimes plans have to be adjusted to the local conditions.
• Sun protection is really important on a glacier and the lip stick should have an appropriate SPF as well.