Hikers have no idea what they are missing
Climbing at the Sella Group and the Langkofel Group is worthwhile just because of the view, even if the approach is sometimes a bit longer.

Sport climbing

30.07.2020 - Caro and Sigi are not able to sit still for a whole day. Therefore, they set off to climb a few routes in the sport climbing area Frea at the Gardena Pass.

Overnight stay: N 46.514429, E 11.766330

Dolomitspit on the Sas Ciampac

31.07.2020 - It is raining heavily through most of the night. Sigi and Caro are disappointed, they planned to climb the route Hypersalami (VII+, 14 pitches) on the Campanile Comici (Salami Tower), but the north face will not dry fast enough. They decide to climb the route Dolomitspit (VII+, 14 pitches) on the south face of the Sas Ciampac instead . The protection of the route is already solid and can easily be extended by mobile protection. The climbing is nice, even if the rock is partly brittle.

After climbing the route Caro leaves in order to climb a particularly long route to the summit of the Tofana di Rozes.

Overnight stay: N 46.4159, E 11.6643

Comici on the Campanile Comici (Salami Tower)

01.08.2020 - We get up before dawn to climb the route Comici (VI+ or V+/A0, 12 pitches) on the Campanile Comici, the so-called Salami Tower of the Langkofel. This north facing route has excellent rock, the chosen line is awesome and some of the pitches are great to climb. Sigi is very happy about the beautiful slightly overhanging cruxes and the exposed climbing over steep and mostly very solid rock. But this route includes almost everything I personally do not enjoy:

  • A lot of unprotected approach climbing to pass the snowfield,
  • three traverses which are not easy to protect, and
  • a long descent with climbing down, rappelling, steep scree and counter-ascent.

Nevertheless, the route is a very good choice for this hot day because we climb at pleasant temperatures with a great view.

Overnight stay: N 46.4159, E 11.6643

Lessons Learned

  • A route must be worthwhile to justify long and/or difficult approaches and descents.
Written by Barbara