08.03.2020

Here we go again

After a break of several months in Fuschl am See we are finally setting off again. This time we meet Richard for ice climbing and ski mountaineering in South Tyrol.

Ice climbing in the Travenanzes Valley

06.03.2020-08.03.2020 - The last few months we had to take a break. On the one hand I had to recover from my injury and on the other hand we had to improve some of Elmo’s features to be prepared for snow and ice. During the last weeks I contacted Richard, a friend from Bavaria, several times to find a suitable date and place for kicking off the spring season.

Now the time has finally arrived. At noon Barbara and I set off for the Ampezzo Dolomites where we meet Richard in the late evening. The next day we decide to make a gentle exploration trip to the Travenanzes Valley to inspect the ice falls and, since we are already there, to climb a line.

Overnight stay: N 46.602479, E 12.106947

Chantalmania

07.03.2020 - The apparently easy approach turns out to be more exhausting than expected. Right at the beginning, engrossed in our conversations, we miss a side road and walk one kilometer into the wrong valley. Hardly arrived at the right path, we are facing 50 cm deep untouched fresh snow. Very nice to look at, but laying a track with complete ice equipment in the backpack is a torture. After 3 1/2 hours we finally reach the ice falls and since it is already late, we decide to simply climb the short line Chantalmania (WI5, 60 m). The right decision because the conditions are not the best. Richard goes first and needs a lot of time and effort to knock off the frozen snow layers. After I have arrived at the belay, we rappel and examine our options. We decide to deposit the backpacks with the equipment near the ice falls, to descend and to ascend again on the next morning. When we arrive back at the parking area, Barbara is already waiting for us with a warm dinner. We enjoy the end of the day in our pleasantly heated Elmo.

View into the valley showing the ice falls

Ice falls in the middle of the wall (Photo: Richard)

Sigi in front of the ice falls Chantalmania and Il Sogno di Luca (Photo: Richard)

Crossing the snowy bridge at the level of the railing

Pilone Centrale

08.03.2020 - The approach on the next day is much faster. After only 1 1/2 hours we reach the backpack depot and a short time later we start climbing the chosen line Pilone Centrale (WI5+/WI6, 270 m). On this day I lead the first pitch. The conditions are the same as the day before: It is necessary to laboriously knock off the frozen snow layers. Later on, we choose the variant over the ice dihedral which starts with a short mixed passage equipped with three bolts. The ice conditions in the dihedral and the upper sections are getting better and better and we make good progress. Nevertheless, it is already dark when we arrive at the foot of the wall after rappelling. Since the weather is not supposed to be very good the next day, we decide to descend with our backpacks and to figure out the next day how to continue.

Sigi in the lower section (Photo: Richard)

Short mixed passage at the beginning of the ice dihedral (Photo: Richard)

View to the neighbouring ice pillar (Photo: Richard)

Sigi in the middle section (Photo: Richard)

Lessons learned

An easy approach becomes quite exhausting if there is enough fresh snow and a complete ice equipment in your backpack.
When ice climbing, knocking off frozen snow layers takes a lot of time and effort.

Written by Sigi