05.07.2020

Here we go again

We have not fitted a rear box yet, but we want to make the most of the summer. Therefore, we set off. The next one or two months we want to travel from one nice place to another. Our first destination are the Cinque Torri in the Dolomites.

Plan vs. reality

03.07.2020-04.07.2020 - One week before the planned departure my little VW Polo has an engine failure. Needless to say, Elmo, our VW T4, is parked on the car lift at this time. Sigi is replacing a few parts in order to make it ready for the trip. I should have picked up these parts with the Polo … kindly our family lends us a car.

Setting off

Getting Elmo ready takes again longer than expected. Therefore, we do not leave Fuschl am See in the morning, but around 16:30 to do the final shopping. Accordingly, dinner is served late on a farm track shortly after Liezen. The next morning we go on for a few more minutes, so we can have a leisurely breakfast at the war cemetery (ital. Cimitero di Guerra) in the national park Fannes-Sennes-Prags.

Landscape along the journey to the Dolomites

Resting place: N 46.6765, E 12.2221; Parking area at the war cemetery

One resting place more beautiful than the other

In the afternoon we arrive at our planned destination. We find ourselves in a parking area overlooking the Tofana di Rozes in the Dolomiti d’Ampezzo Natural Park.

Resting place: N 46.5228, E 12.0641; Parking area at the Tofana di Rozes

During the planning for the next days we discover that the road leading to the Cinque Torri is open. At the end of this small road there are parking spaces, some of which are suitable for overnight parking. The approach is thereby shortened from more than 1.5 hours to 15 minutes. Furthermore, the view is fantastic and dinner can be enjoyed even more.

View from the parking area at the Cinque Torri

Overnight stay: N 46.5094, E 12.0578; Parking area at the Cinque Torri

Starting at the Torre Grande

05.07.2020 - The peaks of the Cinque Torri can be reached via many different routes of varying climbing difficulty and length. To get used to climbing in the Dolomites we choose the route Diretta Dimai (VI+, 7 pitches) on the Torre Grande Cima Sud. It takes us 15 minutes to get there from our parking space. A rope team of three is already climbing the first pitch. Since we would like to overtake them, we do not wait too long. For me the first pitch is a quite poor way for getting used to Dolomite climbing because it is quite slick. Even though the climbing difficulty is limited to the fifth grade, it definitely feels harder. After that the route gets more and more beautiful with every pitch. At the traverse the other rope team takes the wrong direction and follows a shorter and easier route. Therefore, we have a clear run or climb. The fifth pitch is really beautiful. The following 6+ pitch has a short hard crux which is definitely climbable. In general the protection is very good. The only exception is the first pitch.

After seven pitches we are just below the south summit. Via the normal route we reach the summit plateau of Torre Grande Cima Sud. The view on the surrounding Dolomite peaks and the green valleys is simply magnificent. We let our eyes wander and enjoy the moment. After a short nice chat with the rope team of three, which we meet again on the summit, we rappel three times in the gap between the Cima Sud and Cima Nord. All in all it is a nice climb at pleasant temperatures.

Barbara climbing the most beautiful pitch

Sigi has already passed the crux of the route

Summit picture on the Torre Grande Cima Sud

The Diretta Dimai on the Torre Grande Cima Sud

Lessons learned

The Dolomites are truly a dream destination for every climber and mountaineer.
In the Dolomites even easier routes are quite steep.
Be careful with the height limiters to certain parking areas and access roads to mountain huts. The height is usually limited to 2.50 m or 2.40 m.

Written by Sigi