Finlandia on the Torre Grande Cima Nord
06.07.2020 - We get up early because we want to keep all options open. Barbara feels quite exhausted and wants to take a day off. I am not match fit, but I want to take advantage of the nice weather. Caro recommended the route Finlandia (6b, 5 SL) on the Torre Grande Cima Nord and I decide to climb it rope-solo. After a short approach I prepare the gear and set off. The climbing is fantastic and above all varied. You will find everything, from an overhanging dihedral to traverses and steep wall climbing. The only bothering thing is cleaning the traverses and overhangs. Quite often I hang freely in the rope while jumaring.
After reaching the summit, a surprise awaits me. I thought it was possible to get from the Torre Grande Cima Nord to the Torre Grande Cima Sud. From there I wanted to descend and rappel via the normal route using the 60 m single rope. Unfortunately, this is not the case. I packed the Beal Escaper for emergencies in order to be able to use the full length of the 60 m single rope when rappelling. However, when using it you have to pay close attention to the rope drag. I weigh my options: rappelling via the overhanging route, rappelling into the gap between Cima Sud and Cima Nord or using a new belay on the west side. I choose the new belay on the west side because from there I can reach the normal route as quickly as possible. Since the single rope is not long enough and I do not want to use the Beal Escaper because of the rope drag, I decide to rappel a few meters and traverse to a small ledge in the wall. Fortunately, I can climb down to the normal route from there. Once again the descent is more adventurous than expected.
- If you are climbing with a 60 m single rope, you should know exactly where to rappel.