06.07.2020
Alone on the Torre Grande
Since Barbara is still a little exhausted by the rush of the last days, Sigi sets off alone to climb the Torre Grande Cima Nord.

Finlandia on the Torre Grande Cima Nord

06.07.2020 - We get up early because we want to keep all options open. Barbara feels quite exhausted and wants to take a day off. I am not match fit, but I want to take advantage of the nice weather. Caro recommended the route Finlandia (6b, 5 SL) on the Torre Grande Cima Nord and I decide to climb it rope-solo. After a short approach I prepare the gear and set off. The climbing is fantastic and above all varied. You will find everything, from an overhanging dihedral to traverses and steep wall climbing. The only bothering thing is cleaning the traverses and overhangs. Quite often I hang freely in the rope while jumaring.

After reaching the summit, a surprise awaits me. I thought it was possible to get from the Torre Grande Cima Nord to the Torre Grande Cima Sud. From there I wanted to descend and rappel via the normal route using the 60 m single rope. Unfortunately, this is not the case. I packed the Beal Escaper for emergencies in order to be able to use the full length of the 60 m single rope when rappelling. However, when using it you have to pay close attention to the rope drag. I weigh my options: rappelling via the overhanging route, rappelling into the gap between Cima Sud and Cima Nord or using a new belay on the west side. I choose the new belay on the west side because from there I can reach the normal route as quickly as possible. Since the single rope is not long enough and I do not want to use the Beal Escaper because of the rope drag, I decide to rappel a few meters and traverse to a small ledge in the wall. Fortunately, I can climb down to the normal route from there. Once again the descent is more adventurous than expected.

Sigi traversing to the belay after the overhanging dihedral

Sigi traversing to the belay after the overhanging dihedral

Backpack and gear have to be collected

Backpack and gear have to be collected

Hanging freely in the rope while jumaring

Hanging freely in the rope while jumaring

Checking out the traverse

Checking out the traverse

Sigi climbing the traverse

Sigi climbing the traverse

The summit is still a long way off

The summit is still a long way off

Climbing carefully to the next belay already in sight

Climbing carefully to the next belay already in sight

Steep, grippy and tough

Steep, grippy and tough

The large flake offers good grip

The large flake offers good grip

Clouds create a gloomy atmosphere

Clouds create a gloomy atmosphere

The proper sequence must be found at the hole

The proper sequence must be found at the hole

The upper section is still steep

The upper section is still steep

Sigi alone in the east wall of the Torre Grande Cima Nord

Sigi alone in the east wall of the Torre Grande Cima Nord

Lessons learned

  • If you are climbing with a 60 m single rope, you should know exactly where to rappel.
Written by Sigi