Steep, demanding and enduring
09.07.2020 - In the eve we spend a long time pondering: Should we climb a classic or sports route the next day? Both have their charms. Finally, we choose the sport climbing route The Wall (VIII, 11 pitches) on the Torre Grande di Falzarego (engl. Great Falzarego Tower).
Today every single gram counts. With light gear we leave the parking area and approach via a short hiking trail. At the start of the route we face an unpleasant surprise. The first pitch is wet. Richard is grinning at me because he thinks it is my pitch. After looking at the topo several times the grin is fading. He is wrong. He has to climb the first pitch in order for me to climb the most difficult pitches. Richard sets off and is quite challenged to pass the steep seventh grade section. After that the route is dry, but the climbing gets steeper and more demanding. It takes a lot of endurance. You can only find a few easier pitches in the middle section of the wall. The second last and most difficult pitch is once again really enduring. Unfortunately, I miss the well-hidden hole at the crux. I can do the pull, but my feet are too low and I drop at the next move. Even Barbara and Monika can hear the scream of rage at the wall base.
At the summit we enjoy the view and chatter about the amazing climb. Via the normal route we return to the restaurant at the parking area where Barbara and Monika are enjoying coffee and cake.
Overnight stay: N 46.5094, E 12.0578
Lessons learned
- Even after a few sunny and warm days you may be confronted with wet pitches on a south face.
- If you climb long and steep, you will be grateful for every endurance training done in the climbing gym.