10.07.2020

Back to the Cinque Torre

Due to the uncertain weather we decide to drive back to the Cinque Torre and to climb with Richard a shorter route on the Torre Grande Cima Sud.

Quick decision

10.07.2020 - The weather forecast in the Dolomites often changes several times a day. We get up early and decide, based on the latest weather report, to climb the route Fressura Dimai (VI, 5 pitches) on the Torre Grande Cima Sud. We should be able to finish the route before the first rain sets in.

Sigi, Richard and I decide to approach via the route Idefix and a short traverse, instead of climbing the slick first pitch of the route Via Myriam. Richard leads the route, including the first two pitches of the chimney. He carries his little backpack on his back which apparently causes him trouble. As soon as he has disappeared from our sight over an edge, we suddenly hear something whizzing past us. On closer look the supposed stone turns out to be Richard’s water bottle which falls towards the wall base, closely followed by his approach shoes. The zipper of the backpack has opened itself by contact with the wall. Richard can barely retain the most important things like smartphone, raincoat, snack, etc. After this incident he is a little bummed and asks Sigi to take the lead. As we climb out of the chimney, we have to pass the short crux of the route: a small overhang which is harder than expected. The rest of the route can only be described as enjoyable.

The view from the summit is amazing, but eventually we have to descent. We rappel again through the huge gap between the Cime Nord and Cime Sud. Rappelling 50 meters almost free hanging is quite an experience. We find the approach shoes undamaged at the wall base. The water bottle is completely destroyed, nevertheless we try to collect as many parts as possible.

This evening we enjoy a pizza in Cortina d’Ampezzo. After that we drive to the parking area directly below the Tofana di Rozes. Unfortunately, the sign indicating the height restriction is not quite correct. We slightly touch the beam with the roof box, but luckily we do not damage anything.

Overnight stay: N 46.5332, E 12.0716

The proper technique makes the difference ...

... and sometimes it is best to stay close to the edge

The long shirt is a little too warm, but better than sunscreen

Summit picture on the Torre Grande Cima Sud

Masks are mandatory for everybody in Cortina d'Ampezzo

Height restriction to the Tofana di Rozes

Lessons learned

Avoid backpacks on your back in chimneys or at least make sure that the zippers are at the lowest position in order not to pull the zipper apart.
I like chimneys as long as I am not getting stuck in them.

Written by Barbara