Long days on the Tofana di Rozes
The Tofana di Rozes offers great long climbing and hiking routes. Accordingly, many climbers and hikers can be found here, especially at weekends.

From rain to sunshine with cold wind

11.07.2020-12.07.2020 - We spend the rainy day relaxing alone at the big parking area. Even though the weather forecast only predicted light rain, it suddenly starts pouring like from buckets and more importantly longer than we hoped for. Sigi and Richard do not believe that the planned route Pilastro (VIII- or VI/A1, 21 pitches) will be dry. Therefore, they decide to sleep in the next day and to climb the shorter route with the descriptive name 2. Pfeilerkante (VI, 17 pitches).

When we wake up the next morning we have to realize that the large parking area is almost full. There are definitely not only hikers since we watch numerous climbers doing their preparations. Sleeping in was probably not such a good idea. Nevertheless, Sigi and Richard set off for the planned route. A short time later Monika and I also get going to take some pictures of the them. We notice a significant number of rope teams in the route, but we do not spot our climbers. In the evening we find out why.

Sigi and Richard wait for more than an hour at the wall base before they start climbing. In the third pitch they catch up with the other rope teams. Since there is no possibility to overtake in the middle section of the route, they spend a lot of time waiting. Two guys from Brunico share their fate. At least the pleasant conversations at the belays shorten the time. In the upper section Sigi and Richard take the first opportunity to overtake. They climb some pitches simultaneously. This allows them to make up a lot of time and they are able to finish the route first even though they were the last to start. Nevertheless, they can still enjoy the route. Unfortunately, Monika and Richard have to return home this evening.

Overnight stay: N 46.5332, E 12.0716

The weather forecast is incorrect

13.07.2020 - We get up early to check the latest weather reports. One weather forecast predicts rain in the afternoon and the other one predicts rain in the evening. The Tofana di Rozes is completely fogged. Sigi and I decide not to risk the planned long route 3. Pfeilerkante (V+, 21 pitches) and to climb the shorter route 1.Pfeilerkante (V+, 12 pitches) instead. Apparently, several rope teams had the same idea.

At the parking lot and while approaching we meet climbers who have turned around due to the large crowd. Nevertheless, we keep going and hope for the crowd to be gone by the time we arrive. This is not the case. I do not want to wait because the weather forecast is too uncertain and I definitely do not want to climb in the rain. A hike to the summit sounds much better to me.

The trail to the summit of the Tofana di Rozes (3225 m) is more demanding than I expected. We have to cover many meters of steep terrain with gravel and snowfields. Especially at the snowfield below the summit there is no room for mistakes, but we can pass it without crampons or spikes. The spectacular view from the summit is simply worth seeing and rewards the effort.

Lessons Learned

  • Sometimes the local weather report is more accurate than the best mountain weather reports from the home country.
  • The description of a hike should be read as carefully as the description of a climbing route. This prevents surprises and you might take along spikes for your shoes.
Written by Barbara