Gelbe Kante on the Little Peak

15.07.2020-17.07.2020 - We arrive at the parking area of the Three Peaks late in the evening. We sleep in the first day and explore the area in the afternoon because the weather is still unstable and very cold.

The following day we get up early to climb the route Gelbe Kante (VI+ or VI-/A0, 13 pitches) on the Little Peak. The yellow-brown rock in the first pitches is slippery, but in my opinion it is not polished. The route is steep to overhanging and sometimes we have to pull a little harder. The traverse, of which I was a bit nervous, is easier than expected. The most difficult pitch is also great to climb. Unfortunately, our topo is incorrect. Therefore, Sigi does not climb to the left at the belay after the crux, but continues up the poorly protected dihedral. The cruxes are well protected, but we only find a few pitons in the easier pitches. Finding the route can therefore be quite difficult. Sigi and I are happy when we finally reach the top. Although I took along gloves, I struggle with the cold in the upper section of the wall and during rappelling. However, I get warm again when we have to descend over the old snow.

Comici on the Punta di Frida

18.07.2020 - Sigi is bursting with energy and wants to make the most of every day at the Three Peaks. Therefore, Mike arrives from the Zillertal to climb two routes with him. To warm up, they choose the route Comici (VI or V/A0, 12 pitches) on the Punta di Frida. This pleasant route offers good rock quality in the lower part and some brittle rock above the upper band. Even though they set off late, they climb so fast that they can join me again for coffee at the parking area.

Petri Heil on the Western Peak

19.07.2020 - The route Petri Heil (6c+, 19 pitches) on the Western Peak was recommended by our friend Caro. Despite the low temperatures Sigi and Mike set off early in the morning. The athletic crux is in the lower section of the wall and can be tackled in best rock quality. The rock quality is excellent throughout the whole route except for one section in the middle where pitches are shared with the route Demuth-Kante. The upper pitches are much easier, but offer great climbing. A fantastic route.

Cassin on the Preußturm

20.07.2020 - The route Cassin (VII or VI-/A0, 13 pitches) on the Preußturm features good rock quality, making the climb a pleasure. The cruxes are well protected. We notice that the belays before and after are bolted and equipped for rappelling. Apparently, several rope teams already had to retreat at this point. As in most classic alpine routes, there are only a few protections in the easier pitches. Nevertheless, finding the way is easier than in the route Gelbe Kante. The traverse is exposed but grippy. In a good temper Sigi and I arrive at the summit of the Preußturm after this great climb.

Hiking through old war tunnels

21.07.2020 - We go hiking because the weather forecast predicts a few showers in the afternoon. Mike recommends a hike to the summit of the Paternkofel which is very interesting because of the old war tunnels. The ascent via the Innerkofler De Luca Via Ferrata is not difficult and can be done without safety equipment by experienced climbers. However, helmet and headlamp are useful in the shallow tunnels. For us it is a pleasant hike in bright sunshine.

Overnight stay: N 46.6143, E 12.2920

Lessons Learned

• We experienced a few cold days at the Three Peaks and had to take along warm clothes for our trips.
• The area of the Three Peaks is great and always worth a visit even if there are a lot of tourists.
• The parking officials at the Three Peaks are strict. At eight o’clock in the morning Elmo has to look like a car in order not to be sent to the campers at the lower parking area.
• The grade of classic alpine routes should not be at your limit in order to enjoy the route.