28.07.2020

From the Höhlensteintal to the Rosengarten group with a brief detour to the Tofana di Rozes

After a sport climbing day in Landro we take advantage of the predicted stable weather and climb several long routes. Despite the beautiful weather we have to get up early and climb fast to reach our goal.

Sport climbing in Landro

23.07.2020 - For our follow-up and preparation we sleep in and visit the sport climbing area Landro in the Höhlensteintal. The climbing is very enjoyable, even if the topos and grading are sometimes a bit confusing. A local tells us that new topos with corrected grading are about to be published for this area.

Overnight stay: N 46.6070, E 12.2382

Back to the Tofana di Rozes

25.07.2020 - On our way west we have another break at the Tofana di Rozes. This time we get up particularly early to be the first to climb the 3. Pfeilerkante (V+, 21 pitches). Despite the early hour the day greets us with blue sky instead of fog. In the first pitches we are still a bit cold, In the first pitches we are still a bit cold, but later on the temperatures are perfect for climbing. It is a pleasant climb without particular highlights but with a great view. The easier pitches are partly brittle. The traverse is not difficult since we only have to climb past the edge. But the spot is very exposed. Finding the route is sometimes painful, especially in the upper part where we only find a few pitons. The descent over gravel and old snowfields to trail takes time.

The day at the Tofana di Rozes starts with blue sky

One dihedral is still very damp, but climbable

The route offers a variety of climbing, ...

Overnight stay: N 46.5332, E 12.0716

The classic on the Rosengartenspitze

26.07.2020-27.07.2020 - Next on Sigi’s wish list is the classic route Steger (VI-, 19 pitches) on the Rosengartenspitze. Since the cable cars and the bus depart too late, we ascend the day before and set up our small alpine tent for the night enjoying the view of the route. We meet a couple from Portugal who are planning to climb the same route and even want to set off earlier than we do. They promise to let us pass in the route if we catch up with them. This allows us to sleep one hour longer. We pass them after the cruxes in the lower section of the wall which require concentration, a proper technique and a firm pull. The climb is beautiful, yet it includes an exposed but easy traverse and quite a lot of chimneys and dihedrals of different sizes. The topmost chimney requires a calm mind. It is wet and slippery which is quite exciting since there are only two or three pitons alone the 20 meter climb. The view from the summit is magnificent even though one side of the mountain is completely covered in fog. The descent requires full concentration because the normal route has to be partly climbed down and partly rappelled. Via hiking trails we return to our tent.

Late in the evening I notice that someone is still in the route. Sigi is not sure. A few days later we are told that the couple from Portugal had to bivouac in the wall and did not reach the summit until the next morning. They were lucky that it did not rain that very night. We are very happy that they are well.

Scenery on the way to the Rosengarten group

Base Camp with view of the Rosengartenspitze and our route

When the sun reaches the Rosengartenspitze we start climbing

Barbara climbing one of the many dihedrals

... requires special moves every now and then

Sigi on a jammed rock which is passed underneath

... in varied rock with different structures

Sigi und Barbara on the summit of the Rosengartenspitze

Barbara in front of the Vajolet Towers on the way down to the Rifugio Vajolet

Overnight stay: N 46.4159, E 11.6643

Those who seek will find the Pala della Ghiaccia

28.07.2020 - While I treat myself to an espresso at the Rifugio Gardeccia and hike down to Elmo later, Sigi sets off with Caro. She came from Munich to climb a few routes with Sigi. Their first climb is the route Via Weiss - Battisti - Colli (VI+, 11 pitches) on the Pala della Ghiaccia. Due to the perspective of the wall picture, they have troubles to find the start. But the route is worth the search. It offers steep and grippy climbing with great traverses as soon as the lower somewhat brittle section is passed.

View of the route Via Weiss - Battisti - Colli

Caro is happy about the great traverse, ...

Sigi loves overhanging climbing (Photo: Caro)

Overnight stay: N 46.437999, E 11.693955

Lessons Learned

Fast (and safe) climbing is important even if you set off for a route early.
A little additional clothing for an unexpected early weather change or an emergency bivouac is never wrong.

Written by Barbara